Does She or Doesn't She?

This morning, my Yahoo homepage announced the results of a study comparing the primping times of blondes and brunettes. I asked myself, "Why?" Who sponsored this study?

According to the study, brunettes spend 66 minutes per day grooming vs 72 minutes for blondes. In other words, blondes spend 22 days per year vs the brunettes' 19 days. Brunettes are more likely to leave the house without doing their hair and makeup.

I suppose I am the exception rather than the rule. My readers know by now. I am a total girl. Sephora is my candy store. I brake for a fabulous red lipstick and never leave the house without my Dior Show mascara. And I have never nor will ever be a blonde. (Although "some of my best friends are blondes!")

So what can we surmise from this study? Please "enlighten me."

34 x 30, Dark Rinse, Homage to Don Fisher, Founder of Gap

Upon reading of the September 27 passing of Don Fisher, founder of the Gap, I recalled a Saturday Night Live skit which featured Adam Sandler and David Spade in a drag portrayal of "Gap Girls" at the local mall. The two complained about their job duties which included folding sweaters and jeans.

Gap, as it is now referred, most likely has as many critics as enthusiasts. As a brand, the Gap may never dismiss its association with khaki and blue oxford button-down wearing Yuppies on Casual Fridays. Regardless, Don Fisher was a marketing and retail genius as well as generous philanthropist and supporter of the arts.

The first time I stepped into a Gap was in the Willowbrook Mall in Wayne, New Jersey. The perimeter of cubicle-shelved stacks of Levi's was a unique although not particularly inviting concept. Gap was an innovator in the global phenomenon which led to a Starbuck's on every corner. In later years, Gap carried only private label lines, peppered with occasional forays into limited edition "designer" fashion. Some feel Gap does basic best. Khaki's, jeans, cardigans, pullovers. I was a huge fan of the Audrey line a few years back. Skinny capris, shells, ballet flats evocative of a young Hepburn whose image from "Funny Face" appeared on our televisions, dancing to "Back in Black."

Back in 1969, Don Fisher had no retail experience when he opened the first Gap in his hometown of San Francisco, a shop filled with Levi's, records, and tapes. Credited with inventing the specialized retail category, he eventually expanded the company into a nearly $15 billion dollar business with over 134,000 employees and more than 3,100 stores. At first, Don envisioned a small chain of maybe 10 stores selling the casual wear which became quite popular during the 1960s and 1970s.

In the late 1960s, Fisher had leased space in a building he had bought to a Levi's salesman who opened a showroom. Purchasing jeans, he noticed a dearth of sizes and lengths. He envisioned a store which carried a wide assortment of sizes in one place. In his business plan, he noted four basic requirements for success: location (an area populated by 12-25 year olds), sufficient parking, adequate stock, and the right employees. Don and Doris opened the first Gap on San Francisco's Ocean Avenue. The store was a smashing hit. The company went public in 1973 and the stock split nine times since then. In 1972, the Gap label was launched. Retail whiz Mickey Drexler was hired in '83. The Gap acquired a small two story and catalogue company called Banana Republic. A few years later, they created Old Navy which became the first retailer to reach a billion dollars in sales in fewer than four years. Today, the company brands include online shoe purveyor Piperlime which has added an edited line of designer jeans and casual clothing and Athleta, a yoga and activewear online site. Several years back, the company launched Forth and Towne, a retail experience targeted to the 35 plus customer who grew up with but lost touch with the Gap. All stores were closed after an 18 month trial run.

Gap, with its five subdivisions, continues to be the largest speciality retailer in the U.S. Don and Doris Fisher's original concept of a small chain of casual wear shops selling jeans and music to 12-25 years olds during the Youth Quake mushroomed into a retail and cultural phenomenon.

Better than "Tex"

A FB friend from high school posted she was doing mani/pedis and shoe shopping with her mom. Later on, she posted she bought three pairs of sunglasses for the price of one and one pair of shoes. I would have preferred the other way around!

I told her I was monogamous with my Chanel sunglasses but with shoes, I play the field. Although I live in sunny L.A., I have always been dedicated to one pair of expensive shades. Predating Blackberry and i Phone, I once left a sexy pair of Laura Biagotti's at the public phone at Kate Mantilini in Beverly Hills. This set me back $300 and a measure of personal pain. At one time, in NY, I did flirt with two pair of trendy Alain Mikli cat eyes which I turned into regular glasses. Very eighties. In college, I sported gold Vuarnets with that pink loop around my neck.

My obsession with Chanel started many years ago. I knew the time was right to purchase my stunning black Chanel shades which I will never give up. Till death do us part.

Shoes, however, are a completely different story. See, I am a shoe word that rhymes with door. (My 13 year old daughter is a follower of this blog so I will keep this rated PG!) The more, the merrier. If a pair of sexy and preferably expensive shoes so much as winks at me, I am off and running. I am not the kind of girl to wear the same pair of shoes each day, despite the name of this column. I am a footwear flirt.

Today, I made a quick pit stop into Nordstrom's Rack, just to check out the scene. Much like a cougar scans the crowd at the local watering hole, I was drawn to the shoe rack in my size. Wow! Jimmy, Manolo, and Christian all awaited in my size! I resisted temptation but had a brief thought. Finding a pair of uber designer shoes at a discount outlet can be somewhat orgasmic. Scratch that. From what I recall, perhaps better than word that rhymes with Tex....

Garanimals for Grown Ups?

Does anyone remember Garanimals, a children's clothing line of mix and match separates introduced in 1972. Each respective animal represents a color and style to coordinate with any piece in that line. The concept is driven by the idea that how a child dresses will effect their self-concept.

Now, I saw the clothing line on the company website. These Gymboree type collections aren't exactly hip. Lots of thematic graphics and patterns. Not exactly fashion forward.

However, I did get to thinking. What if someone came up with a Garanimal type line for adults? I have seen enough adults in my day who look like they just grabbed whatever looked sort of clean from the hamper and rolled out the door.

What if there was a Cougar line filled with cheetah prints, low cut shirts, and leggings with some metallic thrown in for good measure? How about Cougar prey for 20-something slackers? Baggy pants, backwards baseball caps, and bling? The sloth line for balding middle aged divorced men of Hawaiian shirts, cargo shorts, and same baseball caps. The hippo line for heavy-set county fair attendees or poly blend slacks with elasticized waistbands, track suits, and over blouses.

Then again, since these folks already wear said clothing, perhaps we should go with a more fashion forward look.

Clothes do make the man...or woman...or child. Fashion is a form of self-expression and an art form.

Spanx for Kids?

This morning, my fourth grade daughter and I waited to turn into a traffic circle on our way to school. My mission? To avoid adding to the excessive gridlock and spilling my coffee! Fashion plate daughter, "Wow. Those girls over there are way too fat to wear such short shorts!" P.C. Mom, "They aren't fat, just big boned." I didn't actually say that. But, I did think about self-image, fashion, and the nexus between the two.

You can't pick up a fashion mag or even Oprah's "O" without reading a cover story on Choosing the Right Swimsuit for Your Body Type, How to Dress 10 Pounds Thinner, or some other promise which may or may not involve giving up chocolate and wine for an evening of spot toning. Spanx sucks in our muffin tops, croissant thighs, buns, cupcake tummy. When I just googled body shapers, I found 643,000 websites dedicated to smoothing and shaping your rear with spandex. And it isn't just for women. A website called Go Softwear features a waist eliminator for men, as well as a super padded jock, brief and boxer. What about truth in advertising? Saks is carrying a line of body shapers for men called 2(x)ist. Andrew Christian, a men's undergarment designer whose line is featured at Fred Segal in L.A. is selling the Flashback Butt Lifting Technology Boxer. I have no comment.

As a fashion observer, I can't help but notice all these pre-teens and teens running around in less than flattering outfits. Part of me applauds their devil may care attitude. Why not sport tight leggings or Daisy Dukes with a pair of Ugg's? I have no interest in promoting eating disorders in young girls. I spent my adolescence living on Tab and apples and wouldn't wish that on my worst enemy. I am just curious. Is there a certain point when we realize maybe we should abandon the bikini for a one piece? When do we collectively decide to "dress 10 pounds thinner" or choose control top pantyhose? Now, I live in L.A., and realize this does not happen to everyone. I have witnessed enough middle aged plus women displaying cellulite, muffin top, and pouches sporting string bikinis to last me a lifetime. Ditto love-handled men in Speedo's. Thank you, very much.

I am strongly in favor of dressing for your body type. Showcase your best features. If you have great legs, wear heels and a pencil skirt. If your arms are buff and toned, go sleeveless. (Of course, some vendor is now selling a Spanx-like compression garment for arms. Presumably to wear under tight sleeves?) Sweaty, overweight men in tank tops bearing chest and underarm hair? PLEASE PUT ON A T-SHIRT!

There's a fine line between nurturing adolescents' self-esteem and giving them fashion hints. Maybe adolescents' need to fit in and conform by way of Ugg's and Minnetonka boots surpasses the need to look one's best. Part of me is glad to see these teens participating in fashion and not wanting to blend into the background in a pair of lumpy sweats.

I am just hoping no one starts selling Spanx for kids or worse yet, those ridiculous gut sucking boxers!

Fall Shopping!

Fall is in the air. Alright. I live in Southern California and the temperature gauge in my car hasn't dropped below 90 during the day. We are in for a long, not spell, fueled by the Santa Ana's. But, the stores are filled with sweaters; my dog-eared September issues of "Vogue," "In Style," and even "People Style Watch" are as tempting as Ben & Jerry's to a dieter.

You can take the girl out of the East Coast but never the East Coast out of the girl. I've put away my white shoes and white jeans. I have been staring at the space bag filled with sweaters and other fall items which currently resides under my bed. I have adapted to our clime. My "uniform" of sorts is a fitted sheath dress or a pencil skirt and a cardigan. When the weather drops, I'll break out the well-heeled boots.

Yesterday's "Today" show featured fashionista Bobbie Thomas and a report about menswear for women, a resurgent trend which pops up nearly every year. One outfit caught my eye. Crisp white blouse, hot pink v-neck sweater, worn with a great tweed pencil skirt and heels. See, I have never been a fan of menswear in direct translation, except maybe in my high school preppy days. If I am wearing trousers, I will pair them with heels and lots of jewelry.

I'm currently reading "The Gospel According to Coco Chanel" by Karen Karbo, a fabulous read about the designer, the quest for Chanel, and plenty of bons mots. (Can't wait for the L.A. book reading in a few weeks!) Chanel was a master at introducing a touch of menswear influence yet maintaining a beguiling feminine look. Coco was the essence of gamine, with her boyish figure and impish personality. When the corseted, long trained looks of the day didn't suit her, she came up with an alternative.

"Fashion fades; only style remains the same." Chanel was right on the money. Take your part in the stimulus package. You don't need to go overboard with the plaids and liquid leggings. Buy a crisp white blouse. Banana Republic has some great variations. Search your closet for a pencil skirt or a great pair of trousers. Consider breaking up an old suit. Shoulder pads are making a comeback, although not as extreme as "Dynasty." Get thee to a tailor. Add your own style. You will always look stylish but never over the top trendy. You'll look professional and will save money in the long-run.

Happy Shopping!

Of Navy Blazers, Madras, and Espadrilles

Nancy Talbot, co-founder of the eponymous clothing company which features conservative, ladylike fashions, died yesterday from complications of Alzheimer's disease. She was 89.

Fifty plus years ago, Nancy and her husband Rudolf opened their first boutique in Hingham, Massachusetts and started a mail order business one year later, in 1948.

Looking back, I remember buying a gold buttoned navy blazer in the days of
the "Official Preppy Handbook." I had saved up my movie theater concession girl salary to buy the must-have before leaving for Vanderbilt University. Unfortunately, I left the blazer in the student center cafeteria, never to be seen again. Vanderbilt in the eighties was a bastion of preppy attire. Headbands, kilts, cords, and Madras reigned supreme. It is no great shock that some other co-ed probably expressed delight in finding a Talbot's original! (Not to lay blame on a Kappa or Tri Delt!)

In more recent years, the Talbot's catalogue has become a personal test. Whenever I fear I may be a compulsive shopper or at least sartorially obsessed, I peruse through a catalogue and find nothing I am itching to buy. Generally speaking, this exercise has involved the Talbot's, Chico's, or J. Jill.

Yet, I will always hold a soft spot in my heart for Talbot's, Greenwich, Connecticut, and lime green wrap skirts....

Rest in peace, Nancy Talbot!

Classy & Fabulous, Parte Deux

A girl should be two things...classy and fabulous.

Gabrielle Bonheur aka Coco Chanel was definitely both.

Bonne Anniversaire, Coco!

Chanel started her life as a poor girl born to unmarried parents in Saumur, France. Her mother died before her twelfth birthday and she grew up in an orphanage with her four siblings. Educated in a convent, she would later be inspired by the habits worn by the nuns who taught her. Coco was quite the Renaissance woman, trying her hat at an assortment of jobs including dancer, horse rider, actress, and singer. In fact, it was at a singing gig at Cafe la Rotonde where she acquired her sobriquet.

To paraphrase Sinatra, Coco Chanel was one helluva broad. She wasn't above benefiting from many lovers who helped move her career forward. She once boasted, "I was able to start a high-fashion shop because two gentlemen were outbidding each other over my hot little body." One of these men was Arthur "Boy" Capel, shipping and coal magnate who was the love of her life. He bankrolled her first boutique on rue Cambon and guided her entree into French society.

Upon his untimely death in 1919, Coco developed an appreciation for rich, powerful men. Among her consorts were Stravinsky, Etienne Balsan, and the Duke of Westminster. He inspired her love of pearls and costume jewelry. Prince Dimitri, a Russian duke, helped with the launch of her fragrance empire.

During World War II, Chanel took up with a Nazi intelligence officer ten years her junior. She was hence interrogated and arrested by the French police but managed to escape the charges, thanks to Winston Churchill.

When questioned about her affair, Chanel reportedly answered, "At my age, when a man wants to sleep with you, you don't ask to see his passport."

Chanel left an indelible mark on contemporary fashion. The little black dress, quilted handbag, yards of pearls, boucle jacket, cap toe shoe, Camelia flowers, red lipstick.

Tonight, I plan to raise a glass of Dom Perignon and toast La Doyenne of the fashion world.

Happy Birthday, Ms. Chanel!

Let's Go Shoe Shopping!

High heels have gotten a bad rap. In fact, the British Trade Union Congress has been drafting a ban in the workplace of heels over one-inch tall which they deem as "demeaning," sexist, and dangerous. I don't really get it. The labor organization is mostly male. I always thought men liked to see a girl in heels.

In fact, Isaac Mizrahi who may not be the most alpha of males has said, "All I want are high heels, high heels. If I was a girl, I'd wear a lot of high heels. High, stiletto heels."

Stilettos are like wine. One day, a glass of red wine is great for cardiac health. Just look the health of Mediterraneans. A few days later, moderate consumption of alcohol raises breast or prostate cancer risk. We can't win.

Despite all the hoopla how heels cause bodily harm, recent reports have addressed the benefits of Louboutin and company as well as some inherent problems with flats.

“Over the last three to four years we’ve had a significant increase in the number of problems caused be wearing flat shoes such as ballet pumps or flip-flops,” said Mike O’Neill, consultant podiatric surgeon and spokesman for the Society of Chiropodists and Podiatrists.

Donning flat shoes can cause wearers to shuffle which ruins posture. Feet roll forward which stretches ligaments and tendons, pulling toes out of alignment from feet, causing foot pain and ultimately unsightly bunions. The flat shoe shuffle can also force knees into an angle which can lead to inflammation, pain, and at times, at arthritic condition of the knees. When the feet roll in they pull the knees with them. Walking up hills or running in flats can cause inflammation along the shin and shin splints.

On the other hand, heels provide a plethora of benefits, all sexier than bunions and shin splints. High heels promote good posture, forcing a shift of balance as the heel hits the ground first. I have read that wearing heels lifts your bottom by 25% -- and ladies, who doesn't need that! Stilettos tone muscles and give legs a longer appearance. And get ready to break out the credit cards because an Italian urologist has found a fabulous health benefit to those Jimmy Choo's!

In a study to be published in European Urology, Dr Maria Cerruto cited her research promoting the pump. Higher heels may improve pelvic floor muscles, boosting your sex life.

Dr. Cerruto studied 66 heel wearing women under 50 and found that those who held their foot at a 15 degree angle to the ground, which translates to about a two inch heel, showed less electrical activity in their pelvic muscles, suggesting a strengthening and improvement in their ability to contract. Anyone who has been through pregnancy and childbirth can attest to importance of Kegel exercises to strengthen the pelvic floor. Who would have thought wearing high heels could give a similar benefit!

"Women often have difficulty in carrying out the right exercises for the pelvic zone and wearing heels could be the solution," said Dr. Cerruto. "Like many women, I like high-heeled shoes. It's good to know they have potential health benefits."

"We now hope to prove that wearing heels during daily activity may reduce the need for pelvic exercises," says Dr. Cerruto.

Infamous shoe designer Manolo Blahnik rejoiced in this news. "When you put on a high heel, it makes life more exciting," Blahnik claims.

"It's a way to appeal to the male species, to attract," he added, "and it works. I have men who tell me that heels have saved their marriage."

I will be signing off now to run to Nordstrom's to buy that stunning (and healthy!)pair of grey suede platform boots with the 3 1/2 inch heel!

For Fashionistas with Philanthropic Hearts

Self Portrait, Circa 1940s

New York born and bred artist Saul Lishinsky is one of a kind. Born in the Bronx in 1922, Lishinsky was a social activist and founder of the Bronx Community Mural Project. Lishinsky headed everyday people and children to produce murals in public spaces throughout the Greater New York area, in addition to creating an impressive body of work.

Lishinsky's aspiration for art was inspired by his cousin, WPA painter Abraham Lishinsky as well as a passion for Rembrandt and Cezanne. His first show was in New York's 44th Street Gallery in 1946. He had eight one-man shows throughout the 1960s, culminating with a final exhibit at Westbeth Gallery in 2006. Before retiring to The Harlem Nursing Home in 2008, his studio and seven decades of work were sold.

Sea NYC and Best of 19 have launched a charity tee shirt, featuring a detail of a draft Lishinsky sketched of the Empire State Building for the Bronx Community Mural Project. All proceeds of the sale of this white long-sleeved tee will benefit the Harlem Nursing Home in New York and Damenstift in Munich. The fashion forward tee, featured in the August edition of German Vogue, is currently available only in Europe. U.S. fashionistas with philanthropic hearts can purchase the shirt for $39 by contacting info@seanycdesign.com.

SEA NYC Design features a line of hand drawn designs for men and women and are available at upscale boutiques such as Lisa Kline in Los Angeles.

Shoegasm

I have spent the past few weeks writing about relationships which has been quite invigorating. However, I returned from my recent trip to New York with several shoe stories. I am returning to my roots, or at least the roots of this blog!

Shoes. The universal language for almost all women. No other garment incites as much conversation as footwear. Well, perhaps handbags. Three year waiting lists exist at the Hermes store for the much coveted Birkin bag, despite its five-digit price tag. Proven by the success of Sephora and other cosmetic emporiums, makeup is also an obsession for many of us. The promise of beauty without regard to losing five pounds is quite alluring!

New York, to me, is the shoe capital of the U.S. Perhaps because I spent my formative footwear years in the Big Apple or maybe because of the shoe obsession of Carrie et al. Maybe because New Yorkers are so fashion-aware and stylish. The influence of Seventh Avenue, the proliferation of the world's best department stores. Saks, Bloomie's, Bergdorf's, Barney's, Bendels. Boutiques. 57th Street. Madison Avenue. No other city offers such a candy store of retail! New York has a plethora of small shoe boutiques offering fifty percent off. While I didn't find any shoes to pique my interest or inspire me to let go of my cash, I enjoyed window shopping!

As strolled through Manhattan in my gold Tory Burch Reva flats, I photographed creative shoe store signs and bold shoe styles in the Top Shop, a rather disappointing transplant from across the pond. I was thrilled to notice most working women wearing stylish flats and not the clunky running shoes worn on the streets in the 1980s. Even as a commuter, I always changed into adorable Joan and David ballet flats. A girl must always look her best!

I noticed very few women in stilettos. Meeting a high school crush for lunch, I had decided to wear taupe patent heels because they looked best with my brown linen pencil skirt and black top. I traipsed through the village in my pumps. Since I spent my twenties promenading through Manhattan in Charles Jourdan, this was not a problem until I changed my shoes later in the day! Ouch!

Watching Mad Men and other period pieces, I occasionally wish I had been of age in an era where women wore hats, gloves, stockings, and heels. I am not so sure about those rather stifling undergarments. But there is something to be said for looking stylish and ladylike!

A fashion aficionado, I spent an afternoon at The Costume Exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, a personal favorite. The current special exhibition, which runs through August 9th, is The Model as Muse: Embodying Fashion. Focusing on the period from 1947 through 1997, this exhibit studies the influence of high fashion on changing ideals of beauty. Renowned models of each era are seen in fashion photographs by such luminaries as Richard Avedon, Herb Ritts, Scavullo, and Patrick Demarchalier as well as vintage covers of Vogue and Glamour.

The post-war period through the 1950s is known as the Golden Age of Haute Couture. Wasp-waisted, well-coiffed models such as Suzy Parker and Sunny Harnett glamorized Dior's New Look. The exhibit featured these models in magazines as well as scenarios of mannequins in the style of the day.

The Youthquake of the 1960s brought gangly, long-legged models such as Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton, dressed in mod styles by Rudi Gernreich, Pierre Cardin, and Paco Rabanne. The Rolling Stones played in the background while a film clip from "Blowout" ran on continuous loop.

The 70's paid paean to Studio 54, Halston, and the upscale bohemian fashions of Yves St. Laurent. This was also the high point for American Sportswear and models such as Lisa Taylor and Jerry Hall as well as Cheryl Tiegs and her all-American peers
seen in Sports Illustrated swimsuit covers.

1980's were the era of the Supermodel Trilogy of Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, and Christy Turlington, all featured in George Michael's "Freedom 90" video, along with Cindy Crawford and Tatjana Patitz. The minimalist fashions of Donna Karan were featured alongside Prada and Helmut Lang. The exhibit ends with the 90's radical chic, Kate Moss, and grunge heroin chic.

I left the museum before an impending thunderstorm hit Manhattan. On the Fifth Avenue southbound bus, I sat next to a woman about my age and her 10 year old daughter. My seatmate asked me about my shoes which began a fifteen minute conversation about the quasi-addictive qualities of Louboutin's and our shared plan to moonlight in retail to acquire the discount! I mentioned to my new friend that I wrote a shoe blog and passed her my card. Shoes are the ice-breaker between women, a shared obsession, and so much more!