Showing posts with label retail. Show all posts
Showing posts with label retail. Show all posts

Friday, October 9, 2009

34 x 30, Dark Rinse, Homage to Don Fisher, Founder of Gap


Upon reading of the September 27 passing of Don Fisher, founder of the Gap, I recalled a Saturday Night Live skit which featured Adam Sandler and David Spade in a drag portrayal of "Gap Girls" at the local mall. The two complained about their job duties which included folding sweaters and jeans.

Gap, as it is now referred, most likely has as many critics as enthusiasts. As a brand, the Gap may never dismiss its association with khaki and blue oxford button-down wearing Yuppies on Casual Fridays. Regardless, Don Fisher was a marketing and retail genius as well as generous philanthropist and supporter of the arts.

The first time I stepped into a Gap was in the Willowbrook Mall in Wayne, New Jersey. The perimeter of cubicle-shelved stacks of Levi's was a unique although not particularly inviting concept. Gap was an innovator in the global phenomenon which led to a Starbuck's on every corner. In later years, Gap carried only private label lines, peppered with occasional forays into limited edition "designer" fashion. Some feel Gap does basic best. Khaki's, jeans, cardigans, pullovers. I was a huge fan of the Audrey line a few years back. Skinny capris, shells, ballet flats evocative of a young Hepburn whose image from "Funny Face" appeared on our televisions, dancing to "Back in Black."

Back in 1969, Don Fisher had no retail experience when he opened the first Gap in his hometown of San Francisco, a shop filled with Levi's, records, and tapes. Credited with inventing the specialized retail category, he eventually expanded the company into a nearly $15 billion dollar business with over 134,000 employees and more than 3,100 stores. At first, Don envisioned a small chain of maybe 10 stores selling the casual wear which became quite popular during the 1960s and 1970s.

In the late 1960s, Fisher had leased space in a building he had bought to a Levi's salesman who opened a showroom. Purchasing jeans, he noticed a dearth of sizes and lengths. He envisioned a store which carried a wide assortment of sizes in one place. In his business plan, he noted four basic requirements for success: location (an area populated by 12-25 year olds), sufficient parking, adequate stock, and the right employees. Don and Doris opened the first Gap on San Francisco's Ocean Avenue. The store was a smashing hit. The company went public in 1973 and the stock split nine times since then. In 1972, the Gap label was launched. Retail whiz Mickey Drexler was hired in '83. The Gap acquired a small two story and catalogue company called Banana Republic. A few years later, they created Old Navy which became the first retailer to reach a billion dollars in sales in fewer than four years. Today, the company brands include online shoe purveyor Piperlime which has added an edited line of designer jeans and casual clothing and Athleta, a yoga and activewear online site. Several years back, the company launched Forth and Towne, a retail experience targeted to the 35 plus customer who grew up with but lost touch with the Gap. All stores were closed after an 18 month trial run.

Gap, with its five subdivisions, continues to be the largest speciality retailer in the U.S. Don and Doris Fisher's original concept of a small chain of casual wear shops selling jeans and music to 12-25 years olds during the Youth Quake mushroomed into a retail and cultural phenomenon.

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Spanx for Kids?




This morning, my fourth grade daughter and I waited to turn into a traffic circle on our way to school. My mission? To avoid adding to the excessive gridlock and spilling my coffee! Fashion plate daughter, "Wow. Those girls over there are way too fat to wear such short shorts!" P.C. Mom, "They aren't fat, just big boned." I didn't actually say that. But, I did think about self-image, fashion, and the nexus between the two.

You can't pick up a fashion mag or even Oprah's "O" without reading a cover story on Choosing the Right Swimsuit for Your Body Type, How to Dress 10 Pounds Thinner, or some other promise which may or may not involve giving up chocolate and wine for an evening of spot toning. Spanx sucks in our muffin tops, croissant thighs, buns, cupcake tummy. When I just googled body shapers, I found 643,000 websites dedicated to smoothing and shaping your rear with spandex. And it isn't just for women. A website called Go Softwear features a waist eliminator for men, as well as a super padded jock, brief and boxer. What about truth in advertising? Saks is carrying a line of body shapers for men called 2(x)ist. Andrew Christian, a men's undergarment designer whose line is featured at Fred Segal in L.A. is selling the Flashback Butt Lifting Technology Boxer. I have no comment.

As a fashion observer, I can't help but notice all these pre-teens and teens running around in less than flattering outfits. Part of me applauds their devil may care attitude. Why not sport tight leggings or Daisy Dukes with a pair of Ugg's? I have no interest in promoting eating disorders in young girls. I spent my adolescence living on Tab and apples and wouldn't wish that on my worst enemy. I am just curious. Is there a certain point when we realize maybe we should abandon the bikini for a one piece? When do we collectively decide to "dress 10 pounds thinner" or choose control top pantyhose? Now, I live in L.A., and realize this does not happen to everyone. I have witnessed enough middle aged plus women displaying cellulite, muffin top, and pouches sporting string bikinis to last me a lifetime. Ditto love-handled men in Speedo's. Thank you, very much.

I am strongly in favor of dressing for your body type. Showcase your best features. If you have great legs, wear heels and a pencil skirt. If your arms are buff and toned, go sleeveless. (Of course, some vendor is now selling a Spanx-like compression garment for arms. Presumably to wear under tight sleeves?) Sweaty, overweight men in tank tops bearing chest and underarm hair? PLEASE PUT ON A T-SHIRT!

There's a fine line between nurturing adolescents' self-esteem and giving them fashion hints. Maybe adolescents' need to fit in and conform by way of Ugg's and Minnetonka boots surpasses the need to look one's best. Part of me is glad to see these teens participating in fashion and not wanting to blend into the background in a pair of lumpy sweats.

I am just hoping no one starts selling Spanx for kids or worse yet, those ridiculous gut sucking boxers!

Saturday, September 5, 2009

Of Navy Blazers, Madras, and Espadrilles



Nancy Talbot, co-founder of the eponymous clothing company which features conservative, ladylike fashions, died yesterday from complications of Alzheimer's disease. She was 89.

Fifty plus years ago, Nancy and her husband Rudolf opened their first boutique in Hingham, Massachusetts and started a mail order business one year later, in 1948.

Looking back, I remember buying a gold buttoned navy blazer in the days of
the "Official Preppy Handbook." I had saved up my movie theater concession girl salary to buy the must-have before leaving for Vanderbilt University. Unfortunately, I left the blazer in the student center cafeteria, never to be seen again. Vanderbilt in the eighties was a bastion of preppy attire. Headbands, kilts, cords, and Madras reigned supreme. It is no great shock that some other co-ed probably expressed delight in finding a Talbot's original! (Not to lay blame on a Kappa or Tri Delt!)

In more recent years, the Talbot's catalogue has become a personal test. Whenever I fear I may be a compulsive shopper or at least sartorially obsessed, I peruse through a catalogue and find nothing I am itching to buy. Generally speaking, this exercise has involved the Talbot's, Chico's, or J. Jill.

Yet, I will always hold a soft spot in my heart for Talbot's, Greenwich, Connecticut, and lime green wrap skirts....

Rest in peace, Nancy Talbot!

Sunday, August 16, 2009

When I Grow Up, I Want to be a QVC Host!


I think I may have found the perfect career! Unfortunately, this would require relocation to West Chester, PA. No offense to the folks of West Chester but I am thinking this isn't exactly the cultural epicenter of the U.S. But what other job would indulge my fashion and beauty passions while allowing me to appear on television and chat with complete strangers about Easy Pay and the advantages of a Tourmaline Hair Drier!

Occasionally while channel surfing, I stop at QVC, mostly when makeup, beauty products, or exercise equipment is being sold. I have never missed FFANY, an annual footwear and handbag event to raise money for breast cancer research and support. The only purchases I have ever made are a few Maxx NY handbags and some Bare Escentuals makeup. I do have friends who have ordered interesting housecleaning equipment and Pilates machines. I don't think I have ever met anyone who has bought a Quacker Factory Christmas sweater but, then again, I live in L.A.

QVC, for the uninitiated, stands for Quality, Value, Convenience. Founded by Joseph Segal in 1986, the shopping network features such retailing concepts as Easy Pay (paying by monthly installments), Today's Special Value, and One Time Only Value. The whole limited time introductory price idea is quite compelling. And the competition to acquire the limited number of items before start of the next show...

At the risk of sounding elitist, QVC to me represents middle America. Lots of polyester blends and elastic waistbands. Mom jeans. Comfortable shoes. Wrap skirts by Elizabeth Hasselbeck. Not a lot of sex appeal. However, some top names in beauty and hair have changed this. Ken Paves, Frederik Fekkai, Bare Escentuals, Smashbox. Maybe nothing we can't find at Sephora but still. Sometimes when a girl can't sleep at 2 am, there's something compelling about being able to purchase an eyeshadow kit from a stranger.

I am rather curious about all those call-in's who feel compelled to share their retail experiences with the rather pleasant hosts. Are these people so lonely they need to tell others about the lovely detailing of their Christmas sweaters? According to the website, "At QVC, we like to go to the phones during our shows to hear what you have to say about our products. Because these phone calls are live and uncensored, QVC cannot substantiate and, therefore, cannot be held responsible for claims made by viewers." I once watched a prank call on U-Tube involving a tabletop doorbell and a guy who claimed to live in a "shoebox by the train tracks." I wonder why more college students or other drunk dial types don't follow suit.

It seems QVC has gotten involved in some labor snafus regarding 401 (K)'s and discriminatory hiring practices. This doesn't really surprise me. And the past few retail cycles have seen a downturn, due to the economy as well as the proliferation of online shopping.

However, QVC still hosts studio tours and special weekends, including a Girls Weekend where you and your BFF's can road trip to West Chester, stay in a local hotel, visit the local outlet mall, and even lunch with your favorite QVC host!
Anyone in?